Back Home to Vancouver

That was the end of my second trip to France. I would not return until 5 years later (this April). Each time has changed my life in some significant way and I can’t wait to be back again next spring. What is it about France that makes me swoon so? After I’ve finished moving at the end of August, I’ll recount my latest trip to Europe, which I spent the majority of time in France, but also visited London, Haworth (England, where the Bronte sisters grew up) and Sweden. What fun!

Les Angles, South of France

This little town just outside of Avignon was so cute. Really quiet, sleepy and with no tourists whatsoever. I took a local bus and got off when I thought I had hit the town centre. There was not a soul around. I had a little map that showed me where the “tourist attractions” were, which was a remnant of a tower and chapel, and an old community washing site. None of the sites were marked, so I walked around and around until I guesses which were which. The landscape was gorgeous, wide open and the air so fresh. I ended up staying the whole day, just walking around in solitude and enjoying the heat and leisure. [I hear now the town is changing, as it has a highly active industrial zone. It’s also a popular base for skiing and exploring the surrounding region.- see comments below]

Photo: typical of the houses and yards in Les Angles, France

Orange, the Amphitheatre

Just a bus ride outside of Avignon is the city of Orange. Famed for its remaining amphitheatre, it boasts that it’s the best preserved in the Roman world (how many say that???!!!)? It is quite remarkable, though. The back wall, with statues and pillars still intact, runs 36 metres high. The theatre itself was begun in the 1st century under the reign of August. Today it hosts yearly events, from live theatre to rock concerts, that seat thousands of spectators. Since 1869, each year in July it presents the festival “Les Chorégies,” an event of art and shows that is known worldwide. What an amazing experience that would be. Maybe next time.

Photo: Le Thèâtre Antique d'Orange

Tour Philippe le Bel

Again in Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, lies the magnificent Philippe the beautiful tower. It overlooks the city of Avignon and the Rhone river. When I went it was a perfectly clear, warm and bright day somehow devoid of tourists. I had the whole space to myself and explored the tower without disturbance. The rooms have temporary exhibits of art and the stairs to the top are narrow, steep and, of course, all in stone. Getting to the top is breathtaking. A 360 degree view of the Rhone valley and Avignon is remarkable. I stayed up on the platform for a good half an hour just breathing in the clean air and marvelling at the beautiful country. Ah, la France.

Photo: Le Tour Philippe le Bel in Villeneuve-Lez-Avignon

La Chartreuse/Monastery

Still in the small commune of Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, the monastery, or La Chartreuse, was a fascinating visit. The inner gardens were gorgeous, as was the courtyard with a water reserve. This was used when the monks didn’t leave the monastery and lived in the building totally self-sufficiently. The “prison” rooms, where bad monks went, were open to view, which was neat. These little stone rooms with tiny windows had missing stones where the prisoners could listen to the sermons through.

Photo: Inner courtyard water reserve

Saint-André Fort and the Abbey

Photo: The private residence of the owners of the abbey

Just outside of Avignon lies the commune of Villeneuve-lez-Avignon. I went to discover the fort and abbey there, which was a delightful day trip. The fort was built at the end of the 13th century and controlled the boats on the Rhone and also defended the kingdom. Walking around the remaining rampart walls and finding hidden spots filled with flowers and untended grass felt like searching through my own private discovery. A concealed garden within the abbey, which is a private residence whose owner lets visitors walk through, was the highlight of the trip. The ponds and flowers were impeccable and lovely. I wanted to stay there and watch the sun go down but every once in awhile I’d notice a figure passing a window in the gorgeous manor and remember that this was someone’s home. Then I daydreamed about what it would be like to live there…

Photo: One of the ponds in the abbey

Place de l’Horloge

This is the centre of the centre of the city. This “place” is surrounded by restaurants that seemed to always be filled. There’s a merry-go-round for the kids, and lots of open space to wander and hang out. Also within the square are the Town Hall and the Municipal Theatre. This is where I saw part of the film festival, where actors and the filmmakers were in attendance and shot the shit afterwards. What fun! I did struggle through the films, though, as they didn’t have subtitles, of course. But it was so well worth it!

Photo: Place de l'Horloge

Rocher des Domes

This beautiful spot had fountains, a restaurant and lots of park benches to read and write. The air somehow seemed cleaner and clearer and people walked around in complete relaxation and happiness. There was always children’s laughter as they saw the water spraying from the pond. The views over the city and the Rhone River were spectacular. A large terrace with lots of space overlooked Pont d’Avignon and the Ile de la Barthelasse. Ah, just thinking of the little park makes me smile.

Photo: Rocher des Domes

Pope's Palace, Avignon

Photo: The intimidating Pope's Palace

Le Palais des Papes, constructed in 1335 and finished 20 years later, is a must-see for its imposing presence and rich history. Dubbed the “Rome away from Rome,” Pope Clement V moved his court here until the Revolution. This is probably the biggest (literally) tourist attraction in the city, yet it still doesn’t feel overdone. Today it stands as the largest gothic palace in the world. The location is also great, as it overlooks one of the main squares of the city, so you can gaze at it while eating lunch or grabbing a glass of wine. The open area outside is where kids often play games together (although, after watching them, I still couldn’t figure out how to play)...

Le Pont d’Avignon

Aka. Le Pont St-Bénézet. If you’ve ever heard the children’s nursery rhyme about the “Pont d’Avignon,” the bridge in the photo is what they’re talking about. It looks a bit different now, as it stops mid-river from the destruction of the many wars waged in the area. It now stands with only 4 arches and a small chapel called “St-Nicolas Chapel.” The story of the young shepherd body, St-Bénézet, is legendary. In 1177, he announced that he had been commanded by angels to build a bridge across the Rhône in just that spot. The archbishop laughed along with the rest of the townspeople. Small Bénézet had to prove himself by hoisting a gigantic boulder over his head and tossing it into the river as the start of construction. The funnest part, though, is getting the audioguide and listening to the French children sing the rhyme…

Photo: Le Pont St-Bénézet or Le Pont d'Avignon

The City of Avignon

I was captivated with Avignon as soon as I arrived. The walled city has 4 kms of ramparts surrounding the downtown area, including 39 towers and 9 entryways. I stayed at the Hotel Innova for my entire visit, a central accommodation with a great owner. He would sit with me every morning and we’d chat about politics, weather and whatever else came up. It was the best way to practice my French and gain confidence. The first night I was in a room on street level facing a club. Trendy though it was, the partying went late into the morning and I was so tired from the long journey that as soon as I woke up I requested a new room. I ended up seeing a double room with a shower and paid a bit more to secure that one. Definitely well worth it. I met the owner, M. Calan, that first morning, which was a great start to my trip.

Photo: M. Calan of Hotel Innova

Flight to Paris, Train to Avignon

Photo: The ramparts that surround the downtown of Avignon

I was so excited the whole way to Paris, waiting impatiently to see the city again. Once I arrived, I knew I only had a couple of hours before I had to be on the train down south to Provence. When I got out of the airport in Paris, I realized that the whole transit system was on strike! I ended up catching an alternate train into the city but got stuck at some suburb station with so many others who were totally lost. Although I was speaking French fluently, the announcements on the loudspeakers were so fast and distorted that I had no idea what was happening. I ended up hanging out with a German family to bide the time until the train to Paris came over an hour later. I got to the city exhausted and irritable. I walked around for an hour until I had to board another train to Avignon. Another 5 hours of travelling, yippee. But the ride was amazing, as the route went through the countryside. By the time I arrived down south it was 11:00pm. Everyone around me suddenly disappeared and I was alone walking down the road in the direction I thought was right. You can read my funny tale that was published in the Vancouver Sun.

Learning French

After I returned home from Paris, I looked into French schools right away. My desire to learn the language and return was utmost in my mind. I began a few months later at L’Alliance Française de Vancouver, getting into an intermediate class. I spent the next year in and out of a few classes and felt fairly comfortable speaking and understanding French. By the next January, I was hungrily planning my next trip. I wanted to go down south, probably to Provence, and scoured through travel books to find the right location. I finally chose Avignon, an important city located right in Provence. It looked like the perfect place to practice my French, soak up the sun and see what the south of France was like.

Photo: The main entrance to Avignon, France

The Flight from Paris

I did a lot of crying, I felt a lot of pain. I had fallen in love with Paris more than I ever thought possible. My time there was frustrating, as I didn’t know the language very well, yet so intoxicating. I loved the sleek women dressed in such well put together fashions; I hated the men who followed me around like a stench; I loved the tiny, cobbled streets just off of the big thoroughfares; I hated seeing the women and children begging in the metro tunnels. Above all, I loved how I felt in Paris, hearing French, immersed in French culture. It felt right. It agreed so well with me. This trip would spur my next year’s studies and thoughts as I dreamt of returning to France. In exactly one year, I did, taking myself down to Provence to fall in love all over again. “I’ve gained as many layers as I’ve taken off, learned as many lessons as I’ve thrown away.”

Photo: The Square Louis XVI at the Place de Vosges in the Marais

The Louis Vuitton Incident

The rue Montaigne is filled with rich designer stores and elegant residents. I walked down the streets imagining walking through the tall doors and into the intimidating shops. As I got back onto the Champs Elysée, my chance arrived. A couple had been watching me walk by and approached me shyly. In terrible French, they began trying to tell me something and asked if I spoke English. They had bought a Louis Vuitton wallet already and wanted another one. But because they didn’t want to declare it, they were looking for someone to buy one for them. Looking at my perplexed face, they brought out 500 euros cash and told me that I’d be doing them a huge favour. Images of gangsters in black suits and government officials clouded my mind- what was I getting into? And then I thought about walking into Louis Vuitton with 500 euros to spend. There was no way I could refuse. So off I went, walking like I owned the Paris sidewalk, and into the huge doorway of the store. A man in a suit and hat greeted me politely at the door and a woman came immediately to tell me that someone would be with me in a moment. I was then escorted through the store and was asked if there was anything in particular I wanted. I told them a wallet and pictured the one the couple had showed me. A woman behind the counter brought out the one I was supposed to buy and I said it was perfect. I was then ushered to a little waiting area near a different counter as the staff packaged and prepared the wallet. At the cash register, I was asked for my passport, which I didn’t have with me, and realized that I might have to declare this expensive purchase! Instead, I pulled out my sparkly pink leopard print wallet with 500 euros sticking out. Total class. I left with an adieu from the man at the door and stepped out onto the rue Montaigne as if I belonged. The couple were nervously looking at their watches across the street, probably sure I had slipped out the back door, and I walked over and gave them the wallet. I kept the change for a job well done. Someone had to do it…

Le Palais Garnier

Probably my favourite place in Paris has to be the opulent Palais Garnier (Paris Opera). The interior and exterior beauty is a marvel. On this trip I was only able to see it during the daytime, but I will surely go back to see a show there. “I spent the morning in the most beautiful place I’ve ever been to. I was absolutely transfixed, amazed and inspired wholly by it. Such elegance. Such style.” I remember just wandering in a happy daze and seeing the lush red velvety seats, the library with photos of the ballerinas who have danced there, the refined stairways and classy chandeliers. It was heaven for me.

Photo: Inside the Palais Garnier